Calling SNTP - Free Chat : The Forum Lounge Chat

Say No To Pistons

04-03-2007, 12:28 AM

Fuck it guys... I'll just post it.. TFL won't let me PM the big list... If yo ucan't find the products i listed at the stores, let me know and ill give u other options or places to order form on teh site. If you want to order everything at once on that site where you buy the pads and mitt, then let me know too. I just copy and pasted what i sent to Marcello lol... here guys:

I'll just list whatever i said i was going to list in the thread.

Body wash solution:

you can head out to costco right? next time u head out to costco, look for a gallon of Meguiars Gold Class wash. its a square-ish jug of brownish/yellow wash fluids inside its in the car stuff section

Microfiber towels for drying and buffing:

next thing from costco... microfiber towels. they also have other towels too. but only look for a specific kind. a pack of yellow microfiber towels... i forgot how many of them are in a pack but theyre really bright yellow. Easy to spot, in a bag.

Paint protection (synthetic sealant):

ok... next. go to any autoparts store look for Meguairs NXT "generation wax". Should have a RX7 on the labal. DO NOT buy the trigger bottled "spray wax" version... those are useless "booster wax" ... look for the paste or the regular bottle version without the spray.

Claybar kit:

uses and why you should use it: It basically a paint clay bar that cleans your paint and lifts away any trapped dirt and fallout. Kinda like a facial peel for paint. Since maybe you're not going witht he costly full package with polishing, this will be the only thing that will make your paint look better.

you can find a "Mothers California Claybar kit" at most autoparts store. they come in a box.

Application pads:

next... application pads. i wouldnt recommend anything at autoparts stores.. since most of them are cotten crap. so buy them online. buy the 6 pack. thats what i got. It won't mar your paint if you use it properly, thats why i like these.
http://www.topoftheline.com/foamwaxap.html

Body wash mitt:

this is a lambs skin (or "wool") wash mitt. wont mar your paint like cotten

http://www.topoftheline.com/lamwoolshamm.html

Multi-purpose cleaner:

uses: engine bay, interior, wheels, and wheel wells.
ok back to costco now lol... they have this thing called "multi-purpose (or "all") cleaner. its a big gallon jug and the stuff is green. its near the laundry detergent section. where teh cleaners are. you will have to dilute it for different type of uses (exterior or interior)

Wheel/engine bay brush:
do you have a soft brush at home? not a tiny brush.. but a brush tahts not too big or small that you can clean yoru wheels with. If not then go get one at any parts store, just make sure its soft (you can tell by rubbing it against yoru face lol)

Tire dressing (optional, i'd get it since a clean car looks incomplete with nasty brown tires and engine bay):

Uses: Tires, wheel wells, and engine bay
you can find them at autoparts stores... try to open teh bottle and see if they're water based or oil based... don't get the oil based ones (you'll end up having craptastic tire traction and oxidized tires with dressing running all over yoru clean rims).

Interior and exterior plastic protection (optional, but i'd get it since its a good investment):

i would recommend getting this for the interior and exterior moldings.. but you can get it if you want.. even though its a little expensive, its the best and longest lasting PROTECTANT i know of, unlike those armor all crap. you can use it on plastics or leather (dont waste them on tires and engine bay though... use tire dressing for the engine bay and tires to make them black and shiny).

http://www.303products.com/store/category.cfm?Category=7

the 16oz is best IMO
it will last you years
good investment IMO
keeps your interior from cracking too and looking like crusty shit

You will also need a hose with a good strong spray nozzle (DO NOT USE PRESSURE WASHERS) and 2 buckets ( 2 gallons each at least)...

I will list more if you want to go to the next level. Get teh products first if you want, but come back for teh techniques.

Say No To Pistons

04-03-2007, 12:30 AM

Dread, can you post what you listed in the PM?

Same goes with the rest of you guys :) . WE're just going to tlk about it here instead of PMing back and forth...

wotnartd

04-03-2007, 12:34 AM

Thanks Rob! I look forward to more smartness from you!

I have Wal Mart car wash soap, a woolish mitt, and a bucket.

Say No To Pistons

04-03-2007, 12:40 AM

Wal mart car soap won't work... Try flipping the mitt inside out to see if it's actually lamb skin instead of some cotton imitation. You need one more bucket and the rest of the list if you wanna do it right, lol.

wotnartd

04-03-2007, 12:52 AM

rodney87

04-03-2007, 01:23 AM

Sticky material right here

rx-7_Z06

04-03-2007, 01:58 AM

I'm staying tuned for the techniques. I have most of what you described.

Supper

04-03-2007, 09:46 AM

Say No To Pistons

04-03-2007, 11:18 AM

So let me get this straight... you believe that the only vehicles getting taken care of are the ones that are detailed? please. I think its rather pathetic to see people driving around in SUV's that are spotless, especially Jeeps. They are made to go offroad, to meant to be driving around on city streets all shiny and shit. ANd really, if it isn't a show car, who gives a flying fuck if your rims are polished or not? It isn't like somebody is going to pull up beside you at a stop light and say "Yo, looks like you missed a spot cracka."

I wash my vehicles four times a year whether they need it or not.
"you believe that the only vehicles getting taken care of are the ones that are detailed?'
Nope

"I think its rather pathetic to see people driving around in SUV's that are spotless, especially Jeeps."
Who cares about what you think?

"ANd really, if it isn't a show car, who gives a flying fuck if your rims are polished or not?"
Who said anything about polished rims? Unless they're some sort of expensive HREs, CCWs, or w/e, i wouldn't polish them either.

I detail the Infiniti because i don't want the clearcoat to start peeling, the paint to start oxidizing, etc etc.

R281

04-03-2007, 03:01 PM

Say No To Pistons

04-03-2007, 03:22 PM

These techniques are only for the items listed.

Before starting.. LABEL YOUR TOWELS. Have one specific towel for every job. Here's how i label:
- Body Wash/Dry towel (most important, do not get any wax or solution on it or it will repel water instead of soaking it up)
- Wheel/Engine Bay Wash/Dry
- Door/window jamb wash/dry
- Interior wash
- Wax/sealant/polish buffing

Also, if you're going to do this outdoors in the sun (or extreme Cello texas heat). DO NOT LET WATER SIT ON THE BODY OF YOUR CAR TO EVAPORATE IN THE HEAT!! When you're washing the body of the car, just use the hose every now and then to lubricate the body with fresh cool water like Rigo's bung hole.

*** Never use pressure washers***

Washing:

- Clean wheels, wheel wells, and engine bay first.

- Wrap the air filter with a baggy so you won't hose it down. Also protect any other exposed electronics.

- Hose down engine bay with the hose lightly. If you're going to use the costco MPC (multi purpose cleaner) for the engine bay, dilute it 1/3 solution and 2/3 water in a spray bottle (if not, let me know). Spray the damp engine bay with the cleaner and start scrubbing with a very soft brush or some old white t-shirt or towel. Doesn't really matter what you use a long as it does the job and doesn't damage anything. (same procedure if you want to clean the underside of the hood)

- Rinse engine bay with hose lightly.

- Turn up the hose and spray the wheel wells, under body of the car, and the wheels. Start by spraying the damp wheels with the wheel cleaner (if you're going to use the MPC, dilute it 1/2 and 1/2). Scrub with the brush and rinse the wheel. Repeat for the rest of the wheels. when you're down witht he wheels, spray the wheel wells (or fender line? whatever you wanna call them) with the hose again, and spray the wheel well with the wheel cleaner (or MPC 1/2 1/2). You can scrub the wheel wells with whatever you want since they're most likely lined with plastic or some kind of rough durable surface (those dish washing sponges witht he rough side works great). If the wheel well doesn't have a durable lining and it's only painted metal, then use something soft. Rinse with the hose.,

Say No To Pistons

04-03-2007, 03:32 PM

Washing cont. (body):

**never use pressure washers!***

- Get two big clean buckets (2 gallons and up). One you will fill with the car wash solution and water. We will start filling the other bucket w/o the soap first, just fill it with plain water from the hose. Now with the other bucket where you will use soap, throw the wash mitt in it, pour 2-4 tablespoons of wash solution in the bucket, turn up the hose to maximum pressure and fill it with 1-2 gallons of water and make sure it foams up real good.

- Spray the car body with the hose from top to bottom to get loose dirt off. Keep the car damp.

- Grab the wash mitt and make sure you scoop up as much foam and water with it. Start washing the car from the roof down with the soft side of the mitt (NEVER use the rough netted side on the body unless it's on the windows).

- After every panel you will dip the mitt in the plain water bucket and just shake and squeeze it like big boobies so you can get as much grit off the mitt. Wring it a little bit... Dip the mitt in the wash solution bucket and repeat with the other panels.

-Remember what i said before, do not like the water and solution bake in the sun. Hose your bitch down.

- After you're down with all the panels, just rinse it with water.

Say No To Pistons

04-03-2007, 03:40 PM

Drying:

- Grab your microfiber body drying towel. Make sure you lay it out on the body instead of folding it into some little thing (works best sine the towel has more exposed surface area to soak up the water w/o leaving any water beads behind). Avoid using the edges on the body. Start drying and wringing. ***NEVER USE cotton towels, terry towels, or t-shirts... I wouldn't recommend chamois either since they tend to stick tot he paint instead of gliding and if you got grit ont he paint... well you know the results**
I wipe down the exterior window surface with the same towel too.. i only use the "Window" towel for the interior.

- Grab the microfiber towel you labeled for door jambs and start wiping the door jambs (including the inside of the doors). This is important because water usually sits in door jambs and creates rust. Wipe down your "hatch jamb" too.

- Grab the microfiber wheel/engine bay towel and dry the RIMS and the engine bay.

AmishBoy

04-03-2007, 03:55 PM

Say No To Pistons

04-03-2007, 03:57 PM

***** If you're going to use the claybar, read this procedure before washing and drying! *****

Ok. Once you get your mothers claybar kit, you will see 3 items inside.
1) Yellow claybar wrapped in plastic
2) "Quick detail spray"
3) Craptastic mothers "cleaner" wax.

***do not use the clean claybar on windows, wheels, or w/e you have thats not part of the painted body***

Now this is very very very important. Make sure you don't drop the claybar. It's going to be like dropping the soap because once you drop the claybar, you CANNOT use it ever again. The clay bar will pick up all the grit and will trap it in. Don't be a cheap ass and start picking the dirt out because you're going to regret it when you use that dirty SOB. Keep the claybar in your freaking hands!

Here's what you do when you're using the claybar. You go back to the body washing procedure. Instead of drying the car after it's been wash. LEAVE IT 100% damp (remember, don't let the water dry, keep the bung hole lubed). Do not use the "quicker detailer spray" that comes with the kit. Grab a clean spray bottle, put around 2 table spoons of car washing solution in it and fill it with water and make sure it mixes.

Grab the claybar, and break it in half. Save the other half in a clean zip lock back or w/e you have thats clean. Knead the clay you're going to use. You knead it by mushing it on your palm, mush mush mush.... mush again... play with it like poop. mush mush mush mush... and flatten it on your palm.

Grab the clay lube spray. spray it on a 2x2 ft area on the damp body. with the flattened clay, start sliding it on the lubed area back and forth, back and forth, back and forth, poop back and forth, over and over again... use your fingers to feel the area and make sure its nice and smooth. If the area is stil a little bumpy, keep sliding the clay on it. *** DO NOT USE pressure ont eh claybar!! yeah i know it's going to be hard to keep it from falling but still... you can use a little pressure but make sure its not over a pound***

Once you're down with that 2x2 ft area. look at the clay, you will see nasty black stuff on it (or if you have single stage paint, you will see the color of your paint... dont worry, it's just dead paint which is perfectly normal. you will also see the black stuff too). After you're done staring at the shit that came off your paint, knead the clay good, real good. until you cant see the black stuff anymore. flatten it... move on to another area. remember to lube again and keep teh car damp!

after you're done with the whole body. rinse it again and move on to the drying step.

Say No To Pistons

04-03-2007, 04:08 PM

Waxing/protection:

BTW, for those cheap asses who don't want to buy the application pads. You can fold up the MF towel you labeled for wax buffing as applicators. It's going to be a bitch to work with though and you have to keep folding it because it's going to get loose.

- Grab the applicator pad. grab the NXT wax and shake it really good.
- Apply a dime/penny size of NXT on the applicator pad... fold the pad so teh pad will mush and spread the wax around.
- apply to a 2x2 ft area with the NXT wax. It might look a little thin and maybe also invisible but if you use anymore, it will be hard to remove and it's going to be a waste since you're removing 75% of it anyways.
- apply to 3-4 panels (which adds up to 5-8 minutes of work depending on the size of teh vehicle?).

*DO NOT APPLY IN A CIRCULAR MOTION!! you go horizontally or vertically. Just go by the way the wind will hit your car when you drive it*

- Grab your MF buffing towel and fold it and start buffing it lightly. again, don't buff it in a circular motion. the NXT is an easy synthetic sealant to work with and will require no elbow grease to buff.

If your pad or mf towel cakes up. turn it to the other side or get another one.

Do not apply wax to the whole car and let it "cured" since it will be a bitch to remove and it will not have better results.

Say No To Pistons

04-03-2007, 04:12 PM

REMEMBER to layer the waxes. 3-4 layers of NXT will look better and last longer than just 1 or 2. This is a synthetic sealant so please wait till the next day to apply the next layer. The sealant needs to cure before the next layer can bond to it. Layering also makes sure that you got most areas on the body. If your car sits outside during the curing time, just hose down your car to get the loose grit off and just use a towel to dry it before applying another layer. If you wait a few days, just do the whole wash on it because the grit will be stuck on the body and a simple hose off wont be safe.

I'll post more later...

Say No To Pistons

04-03-2007, 04:31 PM

Personally I've got shit all aside from some mothers car wash soap, some wax and I think I had a claybar somewhere. But luckly my brother just got a whole shwack of detailing shiz that I'll have not problem moochin. Heres the list as best I know;

Mothers carwash soap
Mothers Wax (can't remember the exact name of either)
Claybar
DA Buffer
3-5 different bottles of Klass I think detailing stuff (brothers shit don't know for sure whats all there)
Plus a bunch of shammys, sponges etc.
you can use the Mothers car wash, and claybar (make sure its new).
DA Buffer? Whats DA?

I use Klasse All-in-one and Klasse Sealant Glaze sometimes. I don't like really like using AIO and SG if the surface is not 100% perfect (polished) because it reveals the imperfections in the paint and it's a bitch to work with. What kinda Klasses do you have?

Don't use the shammies and sponges.

Ark2

04-03-2007, 08:59 PM

Ok, the buffer is a Makita and the model number is 9227c.

Don't know if that helps at all.

dreadseb

04-03-2007, 09:20 PM

Sorry, I have no idea what I was getting at with the buffer. Rough night lol, anyways the buffer is dual or random orbit can remember which exactly. And I'm not sure what Klasses it was that he got, the all in one and sealant were in the bunch I think, and a couple others I'll ask him the next time I talk to him.

Say No To Pistons

04-03-2007, 09:32 PM

Wooo wee you're set. You have to be careful with that though. We call it the "rotary polisher". Torque is extremely high on that buffer and it can easy burn your paint if you don't know how to use it properly. Do you want to dump some money on polishing compounds? I'll show you how to use the Makita properly so you won't damage the paint if you want.

I usually ask people to start off witht he Porter Cable 7424 polisher instead since it is almost impossible to ruin the paint with the PC 7424. THE PC will get the job done but it takes much more effort (requires constant pressure of around 15-20 lbs). The makite is faster and the results are better because of the torque and the circular motion it makes (the PC is a random oscillates so it just jiggles the pad).

Ark2

04-03-2007, 09:37 PM

Do you want to dump some money on polishing compounds?

Sure.

I'll show you how to use the Makita properly so you won't damage the paint if you want.

Thanks, that would be awesome!

Say No To Pistons

04-03-2007, 09:53 PM

Sure.

Thanks, that would be awesome!
Here are the polishing compounds i use. Poorboy's World. I think SSR 2.5 will be enough for most applications (unless the car is beat to shit, that will require SSR 3). You will also need to finish up with SSR1 or SSR2 to take away fine polishing halos created by the SSR 2.5 (and up). You won't need to have 2 steps if it's a light color like silver and white. lighter colors hide swirls by reflecting teh same amount of light the scratches are, so thats why you notice less imperfection on lighter colors). You will need to have the second step polish for a dark car (dark blue, red, black, etc). Dark color cars highlight scratches because they have contrast when it comes to lighting, so reflections or imperfections are brighter than the rest of the paint. Kinda hard to explain but i think you get the idea.

I would also buy EX-P since i think it's a good step over the Meguiar NXT. The depth and clarity is the wax is amazing, smells great (coconut), great durability, and it's easy to work with. best if layered.
http://poorboysworld.com/exp.htm

Can you tell me what pads you have for the Makita?

Ark2

04-03-2007, 10:23 PM

Not sure of the name, but I'm pretty sure that they are foam pads.

Say No To Pistons

04-03-2007, 10:46 PM

Find out the name if you can. And take a picture of them.

Ark2

04-03-2007, 11:00 PM

no problem. I'll do that when I go back home for the long weekend

R281

04-03-2007, 11:01 PM

Damn, this is going to take me a few hours. I better start Saturday night.

Rob, you have to move down to Cali and start a car detailing company. I'll be your first customer.

rodney87

04-03-2007, 11:07 PM

*picks up pressure washer

So...... um, bad idea?

Say No To Pistons

04-03-2007, 11:53 PM

Damn, this is going to take me a few hours. I better start Saturday night.

Rob, you have to move down to Cali and start a car detailing company. I'll be your first customer.
Werd, make sure you have cold drinks and snacks. You'll need them.

*picks up pressure washer

So...... um, bad idea?

Si si.

Manntis

04-04-2007, 04:13 PM

hey SNTP - I'll take a copy of that "How To" PM as well, please :)

Say No To Pistons

04-04-2007, 04:43 PM

It's all here. I didn't feel like PMing people back and forth.

Manntis

04-04-2007, 05:14 PM

d'oh! Just read it. Useful stuff!!

dreadseb

04-04-2007, 06:44 PM

sntp, the klasse stuff my brother got was just the all in one, and the sealer. He said he also go Menzerna Polish too.

And manntis you still thinkin about movin to lethbridge or you stayin in sask?

Say No To Pistons

04-04-2007, 06:55 PM

dreadseb, it seems like you're set for the full package. What type of Menzerna polishes does he have? IIRC, they're something like Menzerna Power Gloss, intensive polish, and Finish Polish (or something like that, i don't use menzerna). It's up to you if yo uwant the polishing package (which is the most important when it comes to a good detail IMO) , you're just missing this:
http://topoftheline.com/porcabpolpac.html

Edit; You said something about a "buffer"? Find out what brand and model it is.

dreadseb

04-04-2007, 07:10 PM

LMAO, thats either the exact or close to the exact polisher the kid got haha, looks like I'm set for some detailin.

R281

04-04-2007, 07:34 PM

screw this noise...I'll just take it to a detailer and pay $120, most of them do great work and it's not worth blowing a saturday
I'm thinking it will take about 4 hours of work at the most. I can wash/dry and apply one coat of wax on my car in less than an hour.
I think this information is very useful. We will learn a new skill. Some of us would rather not spend $120.00 every 2 weeks or so to keep our crappy cars looking nice. :)

Say No To Pistons

04-04-2007, 08:02 PM

Steel

04-04-2007, 08:03 PM

Well, Im gonna have a buddy of mine who does the detailing at Lexus do my exterior this spring. The paint is in kinda rough shape (its a hand me down and my mom washed it about once a year in <cringe> automatic carwashes). He's killer with a buffer so hopefully he'll make my P5 a nice bright yellow like that protege up on top of the page.

Plus i hate washing exteriors. I'll spend a couple hours cleaning up my insides, i'd rather pay to have someone do my exterior really nice. goddamn water, and buffing. and shit.

R281

04-04-2007, 08:18 PM

^ Waxing a car won't take longer than 30 minutes (takes me 30 minutes to do a freaking Infinti SUV). It's teh clay and polishing that takes time. YOu should be done within 4 hours even if you take 5-10 minutes breaks.
I'm visual.
Do you have a picture of NXT wax? What waxes can I substitute in case I can't find NXT?

Say No To Pistons

04-04-2007, 08:29 PM

NXT Tech Wax in a bottle and NXT in paste form. Doesn't matter which you get, i just prefer the liquid version since i can squirt it on the pad instead of wiping the pad on the paste.

http://www9.yatego.com/images/44a23b609b0e62.4/techwax.jpg

http://www.showcarshine.com/product_files/G12711.jpg

*** Do not get this one. this is the booster spray wax i was talking about. it's absolutely useless.. ***
http://www.gpwizard.co.uk/shop/images/g12824.jpg

You can also use #26. You can choose paste or liquid form. I wouldn't use Meguiar's Gold Class wax because they're just plain crap. #26 has a lot of depth but it darkens the paint too much IMO and lacks clarity. It's perfect for red though (i like using 2 layers of NXT and topping it with 2 layers of #26 on red, perfect for darkening lollipop pink yzf FDs).
http://www.fordprobestore.co.uk/store/images/M2616_Hitech_Yellow_Liquid.gif
http://www.fordprobestore.co.uk/store/images/megs26.gif
http://www.performancemotorcare.com/acatalog/Meguiars_yellow_wax_tin.jpg
http://www.performancemotorcare.com/acatalog/meguiars_yellow_wax.jpg

R281

04-04-2007, 08:35 PM

Cool. Now I have a better idea of what I am supposed to buy.

Keeping in mind that my car is white, would you recommend going with the Gold class in my case?

Say No To Pistons

04-04-2007, 08:41 PM

If you can't find the Mother clay bar kit. Try looking for the Meguiars or BLUE Clay Magic claybars. I would recommend the BLue Clay magic over the Mothers and Meguiars though, make sure it's the BLUE fine grade and not the red megium grade. Mothers claybar is better than meguairs because it seems to pick up more contaminates and doesn't break up like the meguiars claybar, but htat doesn't mean the meguiars claybar is crap.

Meguiars on left and Blue Clay Magic right.

http://guidetodetailing.com/article_images/Clay%20Kits.jpg

Clay magic

http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/autopia_1939_6441517

Meguiars

http://www.elkparts.com/images/G1116.jpg

Say No To Pistons

04-04-2007, 08:43 PM

Cool. Now I have a better idea of what I am supposed to buy.

Keeping in mind that my car is white, would you recommend going with the Gold class in my case?
"I wouldn't use Meguiar's Gold Class wax because they're just plain crap"

R281

04-04-2007, 08:44 PM

gotcha.

Iirc, you stated that we should avoid using the clay "lube" that comes with the clay bar kit. Does that apply to all the clay bar kits?

Say No To Pistons

04-04-2007, 08:49 PM

This is what the Mothers claybar kit looks like...
http://www.spswebpage.com/images/products/MCCP7240.jpg

I don't know if this is the new look or the old.. But the last time i brought one, it looks like the picture above
http://www.mothers.com/products/productcatalog/productpics/07240.jpg

Say No To Pistons

04-04-2007, 08:49 PM

gotcha.

Iirc, you stated that we should avoid using the clay "lube" that comes with the clay bar kit. Does that apply to all the clay bar kits?
Yup. You do the same for all of them.

R281

04-04-2007, 08:52 PM

Why is it best to substitute them?

Say No To Pistons

04-04-2007, 09:00 PM

You can save the Quick Detail spray for other better uses ( EX: quick clean up at shows or fresh bird poop wipe ups). And i prefer using the wash in a bottle formula because i always have to buff the QD spray after i'm done cleaning the spot, if i don't then it will be a bitch to get rid of the dried up QD spots. The wash in a bottle formula is just as good if not better when it comes to lubrication (which is important since you don't want dried clay marring your paint). If you use the QD spray as lube, you will use up the whole bottle. Oh yeah, i'm a cheap ass too since the QD spray costs a few bucks.

Look what's in this picture. This was 2 years ago iirc.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y240/anotherqx4/MPV%20detail/Picture021.jpg

Eatmyclutch

04-04-2007, 09:25 PM

lol It's even got teh RX-7 on a bottle.

R281

04-04-2007, 09:26 PM

cool sexy license

Can you post the pic of the infiniti when it had that mirror type shine to it?

Manntis

04-04-2007, 09:35 PM

sntp, the klasse stuff my brother got was just the all in one, and the sealer. He said he also go Menzerna Polish too.

And manntis you still thinkin about movin to lethbridge or you stayin in sask?

Still thinkin' about it. I'll be travelling all summer and will decide after that.

Say No To Pistons

04-04-2007, 10:10 PM

cool sexy license

Can you post the pic of the infiniti when it had that mirror type shine to it?
No, a chair with a PC 7424 + lake country black finishing pad and a bottle of #26.

I never took a picture of a "mirror type shine" with the Infiniti. It is also hard to get reflections with a light color (brilliant silver infiniti) because like i said, it's because of the way it reflects light.

This is the MPV.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y240/anotherqx4/MPV%20detail/Picture030.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y240/anotherqx4/Picture029.jpg

This was done with the full detail but i only used #26. I need to take pictures of the Infiniti topped with Poorboys World EX-P.

R281

04-04-2007, 10:12 PM

Nice. My memory isn't what it used to be. :D

edit: What's the deal with your avatar? Is there a story behind it?

Say No To Pistons

04-04-2007, 10:16 PM

I found it on another forum and i thought it was interesting.

Onlyonthurs!

04-04-2007, 11:02 PM

NICE ROB!!! You are awesome man! So you DO recommend that Porter Cabler polisher kit for 195 bucks????

Say No To Pistons

04-04-2007, 11:12 PM

THat's the only kit i would get. I best deal i know of... In fact, that WAS my first kit!

Ark2

04-04-2007, 11:28 PM

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y240/anotherqx4/MPV%20detail/Picture030.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y240/anotherqx4/Picture029.jpg

:drooling:

Say No To Pistons

04-05-2007, 01:09 AM

SNTP,

I assume you've tried Zaino? that's what I've used for the last several years...it does seem to hold up quite well
Yeah, i only tried 3 of their products. The leather conditioner (Z-10 iirc?), one of their polishes (forgot which), and the Z-CS which was a synthetic sealant spray?

I only tried them because my friend gave me free samples to try. They're OK and overpriced. I can't memorize all those Z-4, Z-7, Z-10, Z-237916398213 crap... They get a lot of props because noobs think it's the shit when they read about them on the forums. "OMG! polish swirls away?! no way! i gotta get some, this is the shit!" .. That basically sums it up in MY opinion. I'll stick with my Poorboys world products, kthx.

Manntis

04-05-2007, 10:45 AM

They get a lot of props because noobs think it's the shit when they read about them on the forums.

it has been tested against other products on the NSX forum...

good job proving SNTS right :rofl:

Manntis

04-05-2007, 10:59 AM

He's used the product.

You've read about it.

Yet you whine that you know more than him about it, and call him ignorant. Your pride knows no bounds.

Manntis

04-05-2007, 11:17 AM

uh huh. Just like you put bought a car before you didn't.

Say No To Pistons

04-05-2007, 12:00 PM

granted the threads are older, but to say Zaino is simply "overpriced" is ignorant

it has been tested against other products on the NSX forum and usually outlasts all of them

http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/detailing/forum.php?postid=5504326&page=1
Maybe you should do a little research on what other people also think about zaino. Again, like i said, that was my opinion but there are also many like it. Just do a simple google search. Do a little comparison too.

the link I posted is not idle forum chatter, bonehead
http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/detailing/forum.php?postid=5504326&page=1

read it before making dumb comments

Zaino easily bested the 16 year old's favorite product

Hm... Never said it was my favorite so you simply pulled that out of your ass. I just listed it because it's available everywhere and it's a good synthetic sealant to start off with. I never have only one favorite product because each product has it pros and cons and they might look good on one color but won't look good on another.

Are you done, attention whore?

2ndGen.Rocket

04-05-2007, 12:38 PM

Zaino isn't that much better than NXT.

P21 Pure Carnuba. Hands down the best wax you can buy.

Say No To Pistons

04-05-2007, 12:57 PM

Zaino isn't that much better than NXT.

P21 Pure Carnuba. Hands down the best wax you can buy.
P21S looks awesome on black. A little too pricey for me though. S100 is almost exactly like P21S but it's half the price. They're great topper waxes.

lol

you little punk
hehehee.

2ndGen.Rocket

04-05-2007, 02:45 PM

"best" in terms of what category

no matter which wax you use, it won't outlast a sealant

Not best in terms of durability. Best in terms of absolute smooth mirror shine however.

R281

04-07-2007, 09:43 AM

Great, it's freaking raining over here. It looks like there will be cloudy skies tomorrow as well. Oh well, I'll have the car ready for my day off on Monday or work day on Tuesday.

wotnartd

04-07-2007, 10:05 AM

Great, it's freaking raining over here. It looks like there will be cloudy skies tomorrow as well. Oh well, I'll have the car ready for my day off on Monday or work day on Tuesday.

And it's snowing here.

R281

04-07-2007, 01:03 PM

And it's snowing here.
shut yer pie hole :D

wotnartd

04-07-2007, 02:32 PM

shut yer pie hole :D

I want warmth! I'm sick of the snow. It got nice and warm for awhile, then BOOM fuckin cold snap

R281

04-07-2007, 03:43 PM

I'm buying most of the stuf from wal-mart to save cash *cringes at the thought*

R281

04-07-2007, 09:06 PM

I got to work on the car today and it came out really really nice. Thanks Rob!

Here are some pics. I did 1 pass with 1/2 a piece of clay bar and one coat of meg wax. Yes, I didn't use the circle application style.
The wheels aren't clean or polished in this shot.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v52/mustang281paula/IMG_1873.jpg
The camera can't capture the true mirror finish
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v52/mustang281paula/IMG_1874.jpg
This gives you a better idea of what I see.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v52/mustang281paula/IMG_1877.jpg
Front end shot, just for the hell of it. Lighting is horrible and can't do the shine justice.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v52/mustang281paula/IMG_1875.jpg

Keep in mind, this is a 2001 FORD Mustang GT and the sun isn't out.

I'm thinking about applying a second coat tomorrow if I feel like it after mowing the lawn.

Thanks again Rob. Oh and for the record, it took me about 2 hours. This was just a practice run.

wotnartd

04-07-2007, 10:38 PM

Say No To Pistons

04-08-2007, 01:00 AM

Noice! how does the paint feel? :)

R281

04-08-2007, 10:10 AM

I tried to this morning Dave, but she wouldn't let me :D

The paint feels great. It feels a heck of a lot smoother than before.

I wish the sun was out, so I could take more pics. I walked into the garage this morning and it looked like a show car. I have never had the car detailed. I've waxed it before and it looked shiny, but never like this. I can't wait to cruise it in a few hours. I can't wait for Monday or next weekend.

wotnartd

04-08-2007, 06:51 PM

I tried to this morning Dave, but she wouldn't let me :D

Well, even if she didn't let you take pics, I hope she let you all up in her.

R281

04-09-2007, 04:01 PM

No luck Dave. Can you post pics Mark?

R281

04-09-2007, 04:07 PM

I know what you mean. These stupid clouds have been around for a few days and I'm anctious to cruise for some bitches. j/k :D

Steel

04-09-2007, 06:55 PM

Hey, SNTS, is it true that one can claybar their windshield (if its older) to remove the shit the gets stuck in the glass, then wax it so that 1) rain beads up and gets blown off if your going anywhere north of 30mph and B) your wiper blades will last longer since you took out all those little bits of abrasive junk that tends to eat them up which in turn tends to cause them to streak? kthxbye.

Say No To Pistons

04-09-2007, 07:15 PM

Yeah, but i don't waste clean claybar on windsheilds. I use used claybar on windshields and rims... Works great. I might be detailing a black FD soon.

2ndGen.Rocket

04-09-2007, 08:39 PM

Steel

04-09-2007, 09:29 PM

Claybar then RainX. It lasts longer.

Gotcha. The one thing i really REALLY miss about my FC's is not having to use the wipers practically evar. And its a good thing because the wiper switch was messed up on the TII.

2ndGen.Rocket

04-09-2007, 10:03 PM

Yeah I never use the wipers on the Range either. What sucks is when you get in someone elses car that doesn't use anything on their windshield. I drove my buddy's Accord in a rainstorm the other day and couldn't see shit, because I'm so used to being spoiled with crystal clear windshields. I get nervous riding with someone who has rain matted all over their windshield, I feel like I can't see anything well so they must not be able to either.

R281

04-09-2007, 10:32 PM

how's married life?
I wrote j/k :D But to answer your question, it's nice.

rodney87

04-09-2007, 11:35 PM

This is all good, but what if you car doesn't have the clearcoat anymore? Does it change anything or is it the same step's?

Say No To Pistons

04-10-2007, 12:06 AM

Same. You'll notice some dead oxidized paint on the claybar and maybe when you're buffing. Perfectly normal.

RyanFlemington

04-10-2007, 08:42 PM

just thought I'd shoot SNTP some mad e-props lol for this thread. It's been pretty useful, and I learned a few things, so I did the car up today. Came out really nice. Ditched the old turtle wax, and tried the meguires. Used my ghetto DA 10'' buffer that I'd never actualy used before, and the results were really good. 7 looks nice and shiny, just the way I like 'er. Cleaned the engine bay a little, too(though hardly detailed).
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w19/RyanFlemington/IMGP0363.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w19/RyanFlemington/IMGP0364.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w19/RyanFlemington/IMGP0365.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w19/RyanFlemington/IMGP0366.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w19/RyanFlemington/IMGP0367.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w19/RyanFlemington/IMGP0368.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w19/RyanFlemington/IMGP0369.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w19/RyanFlemington/IMGP0370.jpg
gg
ps. any more buffing tips? I think i can get it to shine some more, I just dunno how lol

Say No To Pistons

04-10-2007, 09:35 PM

NIce. Original paint right? I think you used tire dressing on the tires, right? Try using some of the tire dressing in the engine bay on the plastics (it'll come out real nice). YOu used the buffer to apply the meguiars wax?

RyanFlemington

04-10-2007, 10:47 PM

Say No To Pistons

04-11-2007, 03:34 PM

ya, original paint. occasionaly i use teh shitty spray-on rubbergloss stuff when im lazy, but its been on for about a week or so. I have some meguire back-to-black that might do the trick for the engine. And i just applied the wax with an app. pad, then let it dry for a few then give it a quick scuff with a mf towel, and then put an mf towel underneith the foampad on my buffer and gave 'er hell. Few more layers, n It'll look nicer, but I want it to look deeper, its just shiny right now.
I believe Back-To-Black is made by Mothers, not Meguiars. I think BTB would work better on exterior moldings, so i would use tire dressing for the engine bay. If you're still not 100% satisfied after layering more coats of sealants (improvements when it comes to depth will be minimum, almost unnoticeable), the next step will be polishing. I think it would be easier to just buff the sealant with a MF towel instead of using the buffers, the results will be the same.

edit: on a totaly unrelated note, I read this on the club site lol i must have missed that one. wtfd u do lol also, repost it hahaha
Pft, i'll try to find the pictures. I probably deleted them. They're only a year younger than me anyways (legal for me, but not for you guys :) ).