PLEASE HELP!

I just bought a 91 GST 5speed. The guy i bought it from had installed 2gen pistons, exhaust mani, o2 housing, and did a mild p&p on the head. The balance shafts have been removed(dont know anything about this process). Car has stock exhaust from turbo back and stock 1gen bov. I have a Blitz for the car as well.

I am having some problems with my motor. I have a few problems with it and here they are...

1. The car was idling fine monday tuesday and wednesday but thursday it started to give me a slight idle problem. Tonight it started really giving me an idle problem and wanted to jump idle between 500-1500rpm in different reppatition and feeling like its gonna stall out and actually stalling out at lights and when i put the car in nutral.

2. The car is making 2 different rattling noises. One starts at like 2000rpm and last til prolly 4000. Its like a pitchy kinda pinging noise. The other comes in around 3000 and if im not mistaken it sounds like like valves. Theres also a noise i just heard when i got home not drving hard at all and it sounds like something comming from the bell housing area and its like a major chattery noise.

3. The boost will go upto 7psi or so and sticks there. Wont go over .6 bar ever. but after maybe 4900 cars really doesnt feel like its doing anything at all. I wonder if this is because the stock exhaust and stock dp.

ALso whats the stock boost settings on the 91 gst?

ok ben, ill see what i can answer for you.

1. all that really comes to mind for this would be the BISS (base idle set screw). although it doesnt really sound like that is the problem, its worth looking into.

2. turbo dsms are notorious for lifter tick, which is caused by a lack of oil. this might be what you are hearing but again, doesnt really sound like it.

3. with the 14b, boost should DEFINATELY not fall off at 4900. the stock boost for the 1G's is around 11.1 psi, does the car have a boost controller? could the bov be leaking? (althought the 1G bov has been known to be much better than the 2G one).

youre probably better off asking someone with more knowledge than me, cause im dont always know what im talking about <img src="http://www.spartanburgracing.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'>

When David (white GST) was rebuilding his engine when I worked at Mitsubishi, we noticed the replacement lifters had an oil hole at least 2 times larger than the factory ones. &nbsp;I think it was a revision to stop the noises you are talking about. You could try adjusting the biss but its probably a sensor (maf or map). &nbsp;He's probably cut the honeycomb maf if you dont have the VPC (prolly not). &nbsp;Good luck at least you didnt get an auto &nbsp; <img src="http://www.spartanburgracing.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':D'>

Well since i posted that s### has really hit the fan. The car is making a loud ass ticking noise comming from the in the top of the motor close to the driver side (timing belt area in the motor). I really dont know what any of the problem are besides the biss. I really need this fixed so i need t o figure out or take it to someone to fix it. I hope this one cost a ton.

The guy i got the car from builds motors and all but problem with getting it back to him is hes in Myrtle Beach. Thats the reason its not already back there. Hes quality work but something has gone wrong here. I need help if anyone knows of any one good with dsm that will take a look tell me about them PLEASE! I NEED MAJOR HELP SOON!!!

ah man that sux ben and i really wanted to check that bad boy out. hopefully its not something too serious, i know that removing the balance shafts will cause some more noise and vibration, but that doesnt sound the same as what u described. whats Jeff think about it?did u ask the guys on Clubdsm.com? they were real helpful when i had my talon.

ok, i talked to a more experienced dsm guy and heres his input.

1. the ISC (idle speed controller) is most likely at fault for the idle problem. &nbsp;also, a tune up couldent hurt anything, it just might solve the problem. the ISC problem is the main source of the faulty &quot;hunting&quot; idle in turbo dsm's.

2.lifter tick is a definate possibility for the second noice, but &nbsp;the first sound could be caused by the balance shaft removal(they cause a lot of vibration in the engine when removed), all done to reduce rotating mass. also, your clutch/flywheel setup could be going bad (which happened in ricks new car [tt supra])

3.the 14b, especially with all the 2g exhaust components, should hold 17-18 psi all the way to redline. &nbsp;The turbo could be going/seiznig from a lack of oil or a loose center section. &nbsp;If not, maybe you are using poor quality (low octane gas, which im pretty damn sure you arent doing <img src="http://www.spartanburgracing.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'> ) and the ECU is both pulling timing and lowering boost

hope that helps some

Does anyone know of a good local person who could help me &quot;tuner up&quot; the gst? I need to contact them and do so asap. Someone fairly close cause i cant get the car far or else it would be back with jeff getting what it needs.

I dont know much about dsm, so i probably wont be much help. But check your oil, i'm running mobil1 15w-50 and it works good. also if you can get down to the turbo remove the intake pipe and check for shaft play. you dont want to boost on a turbo with major shaft play. Also try and get the blitz installed, the bov could be leaking.

The guy I worked with at Mitsu David works at Spee-Dee Lube across from Barnes and Noble. I thought he was in Lunspeed but that might have been back in the day or something. He could probably help you out just stop by there or call. I think he had a white 95 GS-T.

If you do have your blitz bov installed then tighten the spring. &nbsp;Without the spring tighten you would have the idle problems you mentioned. &nbsp;Also since you are not seeing full boost I suspect either the bov or a vacuum leak. &nbsp;The blitz bov has an allen type screw with a nut to secure it from rolling in and out of place. &nbsp;Adjust the allen screw on top and then tighten that nut. &nbsp;The stock bov on the first gen's are supposively good and most 2nd gen dsm's use the 1st gen bov.

I have the 1G on now. The Blitz isnt on cause the flange wasnt right and it wasnt completely flat and you could see daylight through it.

Car will be on the way back to Garage Epik Tunning tomorrow to get the works done. When it comes back i look foward to a 3&quot; DP and Sidepipe! <img src="http://www.spartanburgracing.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':D'>

Just dp and sidepipe? &nbsp;Expect flames...

Thats not bad at all! I was expecting them anyways! <img src="http://www.spartanburgracing.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':D'>

sounds good man cant wait to see what that bad boy can do when u get it right.ill be lookin for ya at the track man.

All of those problems can be answered at one website DSM.org (http://www.dsm.org) *. *Those problems mentioned are all pretty basic. *Also, if you want the BEST in DSM performance, go to Buschur Racing (http://www.buschurracing.com) . *

1. *Idle surge fix (http://www.dsm.org/archives/1997/04/19970409.txt/8.html)

2. *check dsm.org *- the FAQ section
* * *also, post any questions you have on Georgia DSM (http://ga.dsm.org)

3. *The ticking is lifter tick, and almost all 1Gs had it. *Even 2Gs had the tick (mine was constant). *This tick however is nothing to worry about immediately. *The only way to get rid of it is through a new set of lifters...but after a couple thousand miles...it will just start ticking again. * The really loud tick however, will only occur at idle and when it is cold.

Ben's car has been here for a lil' bit now. &nbsp;I replaced the lifters with the 3rd revisions that are posted on DSMTalk Forum. &nbsp;You can't beat the price at $7.74 each.. &nbsp; Now no more tick in the top end. &nbsp;Quited the car down by at least over half what it used to be.. a quiet DSM..wierd..

There was still a subtle knock when the engine was revved to over 3k. &nbsp;I pulled the pan and 3 of 4 rod bearings sets were showing some serious heat. &nbsp;I Mic'd the crank and put in an order with the local dealer for new rod bearings. &nbsp;They have dicked me around for what seems like forever now.. &nbsp;After talking to Ben today on the phone, we have opted to go with Clevites from NAPA. &nbsp;I'm going to Plastigage them to make sure that they come within spec, and then if all is okay, back together she goes. &nbsp;I'll be putting the break in miles on her just to make sure that it is all good.

If there is still an idle issue after this, then I'll be adjusting the BISS, checking timing..etc. &nbsp; Swapping out the balance shafts will not cause and idle issue, just a slight vibration at about 3-4k rpms. &nbsp;Nothing to be alarmed about, and by removing approx 8lbs and an extra belt off the crank, imagine the revs and hp you gain. &nbsp;The benefits far out weigh the slight vibes. &nbsp;

I sure as hell hope that the NAPA bearings work out for us, &nbsp;Ben needs his car back (get a job..LOL) and I need the space. &nbsp;I'm up to 15 cars in the garage right now!! <img src="http://www.spartanburgracing.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':0'>

Patience is virtue. &nbsp;It will be back strong. <img src="http://www.spartanburgracing.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>

The Clevite bearings were installed today and I have driven the car home to put some miles on her. &nbsp;No nasty noises and the idle issues was cured by adjusting the BISS and filling the hole with some silicone to keep the screw from backing out again.

A few trips around the block after about 30 minutes of idling and checking it all out and it looks good. &nbsp;One part throttle run on the way home netted 11 psi of steady boost. &nbsp;A few more easy miles on it and I'd say she's ready to go.

Ben brought some parts with him when he had the car dropped off.. guess it's time for some mods. &nbsp;

stay tuned..

I cant wait to get her back. Need to replace the $ i have spent. But if any of you want your cars modded heavily goto Jeff. Might not be back tomorrow but i know when it comes back it will be Hell if you get the GOODs.

Hatchcrap was a prime example as will this be with a touch of GREEN.

Hella thanx Jeff. Cant express my thanx to you. &nbsp;<img src="http://www.spartanburgracing.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':D'>

Much Thanks to you Ben. &nbsp;A happy customer simply telling people that he is happy is plenty enough for me!!

Enjoy the car, it will be a runner for sure with the DP and 550s and bit more boost. &nbsp;Due to the 2G pistons just be certain you always use good gas, remember the 8.5:1 CR pistons will not be as detonation resistant as the 1G stockers at 7.8:1. &nbsp;

Be safe.. stay tuned!