I had a little coolant leak from a missing nut, and thought the buzzing I was getting was due to it. There are no idiot lights on. I fixed the leak, filled the coolant, still getting the buzzer. Oil was changed two days ago, oil level is fine, so I don't think that's the buzzer, either. Any ideas?

Is it constant, or are there conditions where it comes on?

Mine has an issue with the oil level sender that causes it to go off on hard left corners.

When I start it up, it's fine. It's after it's running for a minute that it starts. Sometimes if you rev the engine, it goes away.

I just test drove it up and down my road, the only way to get rid of it is to turn the engine off then on, and then after about 5 seconds, it comes back. The only other thing I've done to the car in the past week is the FD alt swap... Before the alt swap it was fine, now it's doing the buzzing. Is there a warning buzzer for the charging system?

There is, actually.

Though if your voltmeter is working it should show if theres a problem.

I don't have a voltmeter. I have fuel level, boost, oil pressure and water temp. Stock FC gauges.

Shit... I forgot they put a boost gauge in place of the voltmeter on TII's...

Its probably something in the charging system then. That would explain why it would go away on rev sometimes.

I am going to go swap the alt off of my vert onto it and see if that takes care of it... Maybe I just don't have the FD alt wired in right.

Its possible. After all, nothing ever works right the first time through.

Even if you've done it a hundred times before.

OK, I just swapped the alt from my 'vert on to it, and now we have a new problem: The buzzer was still on, and this time, I took the key out of the ignition, the engine stayed on (and so did the fucking buzzer). I had to pull the EGI fuse to turn the engine off.

Wow... thats just spectacular.

There are so many things that could indicate, I don't even know where to begin.

Yeah, it would really help if the fucking 7club was up.

I had clipped the two wires that attach to the alternator and put female connectors on them to go on the FD alternator... If I connected them to the FC alt incorrectly, would that cause the continuous running problem?

It shouldn't...

As far as I know the alternator just charges, it doesn't have any relays to rout power.

According to this (http://mazdarx7.iougs.com/electrical.shtml), they do... Maybe I have 'em reversed. I'll have to wait til tomorrow to figure it out.

Hmm... I'm really stumped on this one.

Good luck!

Start with the coolant level sensor on the radiator. Maybe it's corroded or the wire broke or has a bad connection. My wire broke on the sensor, and I just pulled a new one from a junker and spliced it onto the wire, and it's golden. :D

Oh and try this: http://forum.teamfc3s.org/

don't know if this has anything to do with what ur experiencing but, i was at a friends house the other day and he's got an n/a fc he rebuiilt the engine for. he let me drive it to see how it runs after his porting job. it wasn't long after getting it started there was a buzzer that started but no idiot lights. asked him what it was and he said it was because due to it not having the power steering hooked due to a bad pump.

five intermittent beeps mean your tach isn't working...

BUt really Kev, I'd start from the coolant level sensor on the radiator...

acutally, 2 short beeps together means the tach isn't work. I had a dead trailing not too long ago..

five intermittent beeps mean your tach isn't working...


5 intermittent beeps is the power steering computer.

This is a shrieking buzzer. Big difference between buzz and beep.

5 intermittent beeps is the power steering computer.

This is a shrieking buzzer. Big difference between buzz and beep.

Did you check your coolant level sensor on the radiator?

no warning lights on?

I'd check that the wire to the coolant level sender (on the very top of the rad in the middle) is connected.

if it is, try disconnecting it and grounding the wire that goes to the car, see if that makes it stfu.

guess I shoulda read page 2 before posting.

Updates Kev?

Hey guys.

Thanks for all your help. It turned out that the FC alt was feeding back into the car. Swapped back to the the FD alt, and that stopped the "still running" problem. Still, I want to get a voltmeter. Since the stock boost gauge is mostly pointless, I'm debating swapping in an NA gauge cluster (I have two spares), and running an aftermarket boost gauge somewhere.

The warning buzzer was coolant level. I thought I had topped off the coolant level, but I didn't open the bleeder screw. As soon as I bled the air out of the system and filled it, no more buzzer. I was able to drive the car to work 3 days last week, which was nice. Right now, the interior is gutted so I can put down sound deadening, run all new wires for the stereo and all that, and swap in my Microtech LT-8S.

glad u got it straightened out. :bigthumb:

Hey, I was close! :D

I also found out through IceMark that I can direct swap in an NA gauge cluster, so I'll have a voltmeter. I'm going to do an aftermarket boost gauge, plus probably an EGT or something... I'm planning on building a custom gauge pod out of fiberglass that will wedge between the dash and windshield, near the A-pillar... I don't like A-pillar gauges, they are a little too obvious for my tastes.