I ordered a set of replacement 4656 quad lamps from http://www.spitzkraft.com

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They arrived well packed and undamaged.

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The kit included all the wiring and hardware...

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...and bulbs, which came pre-installed in the assemblies. I took this Philips D1S bulb out of the low beam housing so it could pose for this photo.

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I started by swapping out the high-beams, since the new high beams were halogen and a snap-in replacement (sort of - more on that later)

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The clear lens polycarbonate halogen replacement is about the same size as the old sealed beam unit, and comes with a harness adapter for plug-and-play electrics.

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Will the new 4656s just pop in place of the old? Let's make sure...

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Just release the spring...

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..and tap the bucket out from the two aiming screws...

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Oops! the Chrysler headlight buckets have a small opening at the back. It doesn't fit!

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No worries, just trim out a bit of metal...

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Much better!

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now I just had to attach the harness adapter, and the high beams were done.

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The low beam Xenons didn't fit either.

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So more cutting...

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And voila! Notice I left room for the harness adapter to stick through at the side, and taped it with vinyl tape to prevent the metal cutting into the wire insulation.

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Fits like a glove. Now to mount the ballasts!

The Daytona features metal panels behind the lights that protect it the engine bay from front splashes, and these panels are further protected by overhangs. Because they're well forward of the engine, these front corner positions are also fairly cool, considering they're in an engine bay.

Electrics such as the ballasts are far happier in cool and dry positions such as this!

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First, we have to make room on the driver's side. I took out the battery...

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...then the coolant reservoir...

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The ballasts will go in this corner. Eventually.

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The air cooled computer and it's huge housing has to get out of the way.

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A semi-hidden bolt. Oh, those wacky Chryco engineers!

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Out she comes. This will make working on the front wall, and stringing the wiring harnesses, much easier.

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With battery, tray, coolant bottle, and computer housing out of the way, there's tons of room to work.

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Meanwhile, on the passenger side, all I had to do was drill holes and mount the ballast. I decided to do this side first, as it'll have harness running past the left side ballast later.

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so far, so simple...

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I ran the green wire, which plugs into the stock harness, and the bulb harness through a hole in the frame...

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...and out beside the bulkhead.

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D'OH! There's no reason for this sub-harness to be attached to the light assembly, since it just plugs into the stock harness at one end and to the green wire at the other. This means I didn't need to cut and vinyl-tape that side notch earlier.

Ah well. Live and learn.

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I dunno if it's unique to Chrysler headlight bezels, but mine were an extremely tight fit. I cut out some of the rounded corner so I could put them on over the lights without scratching the polycarbonate lenses...

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There! Snug like bug in rug.

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Connected up the harnesses to the ballast...

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I repeated my ballast and light mounting efforts on the left side. You can see I ran the right-side harness up along the front edge of the radiator. The metal was shaped just right to act as a full-length retaining bracket!

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Putting the battery tray, computer housing, and coolant bottle back. You can just see the ballast beside and behind it. In the Daytona, there's about an inch and a half between the coolant bottle and the metal wall I mounted the ballast to, so the two don't touch.

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Mounting the relays (I've since tidied up that harness overlapping the rear relay)

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Each harness has two 20 amp fuses mounted in a fuse block, and a red (power) and black (ground) wire. The two blocks snap together to make a chain, seen to the left of the strut tower...

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...and the red and black wires I bolted directly into the side battery terminals.

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Well protected ballast (notice the overhang?)...

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Clean install! Dirty beater car!

All wiring neatly tucked and secured, ballasts in cool, dry areas, relays and fuses safe and sound with their stock counterparts...

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The new HID projectors stick out more than stock since they sit in the same buckets, but I think they look good.

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Done!

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a hasty shot, lights aren't aimed yet...

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as seen from the front

you need a new beater lol.

you need a new beater lol.
Why? The whole point of a winter beater is to have a strong battery, effective coolant system, good winter tires, weight on the drive wheels, and good lighting.

The paint condition is incidental, since lazy people with all-season tires often slide into you and ding your car anyhow.

Man that's an awesome write-up.
Can't believe all for a beater :D

nice.