From http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?p=3395294#post3395294 :

Well, since my F/I idea has been scrapped (see: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=300040 ), I decided that I should start a new one to follow my progress. I've taken on this project since my '06 MX-5 with 38k is no longer declared under warranty, and with a going rod bearing I have little that I can do with the stock 2.0. I was quoted around $5k for a new replacement engine, and around $1500 to install it.

Wasn't gonna happen, so I've decided to take up the project myself. Instead of just going for the obvious same replacement, I was inspired by this article (http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/r...ata/engine.html) and got the idea to kick things up a notch while managing to stay under the predicted cost for a new engine.

I'm still in the collection phase of all the parts needed, but here's my list of what will be involved for reference along with approx cost:

Used 2007 Mazda6 I4 engine w/4k on the dial: $1500

Factory Shop Manual: Varies (still sourcing best price)

Balance Shaft Delete Kit for removal of 2.3L oil pan that will not fit. Will swap in the 2.0L one, but only after the shaft is out of the way: $34.99 (Source: www.Massivespeedsystem.com)

Custom header for taller block. Stock will not fit. : Varies (in negotiation with builder)

Goodwin Racing RoadsterSport midpipe & sensor extensions for those still wanting to pass emissions. Reason for this is that the stock header houses two sensors as well as the first cat. GWR's midpipe allows both sensors to still be used, thus avoiding your car throwing codes. The extensions help those sensors get to the new bungs. : $461 (Source: http://www.good-win-racing.com)

Xede Engine Management System for tuning. I decided to opt on the safe side and get a piggyback ECU, in the chance that the stock one cannot compensate for the change in motor: $899 (Source: http://www.bellengineering.net/prod...products_id=135)

Fel-Pro Engine Cylinder Head Bolt Set, since I will be using the stock 2.0L head for this project and just want to do things right. : $46.99

2007 Mazda6 Head Gasket (on the chance that it needs to be replaced): $93.70

2006 Mazda MX-5 Exhaust Gasket (ditto): $33.12

Total Estimated Cost: $3068.80 (not including headers & book)
------------------
Optional Stuff

Since I'm going to be going through the trouble of messing with the exhaust 2/3 of the way, I'm also adding in a used Goodwin Racing Roadstersport II muffler and Fujita CAI intake for proper flow: $472

My Total Estimated Cost: $3714.49 (Not including headers & book; Includes taxes & shipping on parts)

Estimated Savings: $2785.51 over Stealership

More to come later

13B FTW.


/thread


Better yet wanna buy a 12A and Tranny?


//thread

Wait... you can't even change your oil, but what to undertake this?

Fly me up and I'll do the swap.


For a fee.

Wait... you can't even change your oil, but what to undertake this?

lolz, one mistake and everyone thinks I'm incompetent....

Such ain't the case, Wot. Eat a dick. :asshole:

Fly me up and I'll do the swap.


For a fee.

Unless you mean "pizza and beer" in terms of "fee", not interested. :D

Unless you mean "pizza and beer" in terms of "fee", not interested. :D


If I had time to I would, I got laid off at my job so I gotta find something temporarily until I get called back. Gotta love this economy! :cussing:

13BT FTW.


/thread


+1

Its such a fun car afterwards.

lolz, one mistake and everyone thinks I'm incompetent....

Such ain't the case, Wot. Eat a dick. :asshole:

You said you didn't know how to change the oil.

So factor a ticket and 1000 bucks and I'll do the swap.

You said you didn't know how to change the oil.

No, I believe I said I didn't know how to read the oil dipstick, being how the NCs are notoriously shitty.

From various threads on miata.net:

How can a respected company develop and build such an incredible sportscar and have such a poor excuse for a dipstick? There, I've said it. Yikes. I feel much better now. :p

Lance is likely correct, as usual. However, I do know I had trouble getting consistent readings with the NC stick in it's OEM configuration. Really poor design.

Rants about the poorly designed dipstick are never ending (since they continue to use the same design even now). Several do it yourself mods have been proposed and the raving sort of dies out until the next eruption. Do it yourself is still the best bet for simple jobs such as oil/filter changes. Then you know it's done right.


I could go on, but I'd hope you'd see my point here.

WHat kind of power are you expecting from this nightmare of a project?

200 crank?

why not just rebuild and turbo for the same cost?

Because I don't really know much about rebuilding engines (that would be the REAL nightmare of a project right there). I'd rather just go with a straight N/A swap and not have to deal with electrical issues and all that jazz if I had gone with a 2.3L Turbo.

Cosworth's new supercharger is priced at $5899.00, and I don't believe there's any sort of current turbo setup for the NC Miata (that's complete, at least).

My N/A project makes a lot more sense to me, and 200 crank? Perhaps, but I'm expecting a bit more then that. I'll get back to you on that one after a dyno session. Even if not, I still end up with a more more torque based engine with 4K on the clock, rather then a rebuilt one at 38K.

Here's some info on one of the Japanese shops that have managed this swap so far:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4025553

While the stock 2.0L mill in the stock Roadster serves up more than enough power to enjoy the car, the crew at Integral Kobe has taken things a step further. To source some extra power, a larger 2.3L MZR powerplant was borrowed from the Mazda Atenza sports sedan.

With the added displacement, some fine tuning and bolt-on additions, the car is now outputting around 210ps. While this may not sound like much, it is nearly a 40ps gain over the stock engine and the car still retains its famed naturally aspirated responsiveness.

Edit: With Cosworth's S/C, it bumps up the NC's power to 210. Integral Kobe's N/A makes 207 according to a PS-to-HP conversion.

IC.

I guess the real bitch is that you have a failing rod bearing on an '06 miata.

Good luck with all this!

And you don't just get an engine from car-part.com why, exactly?

And you don't just get an engine from car-part.com why, exactly?

Actually, I DID. :D

That's how I found the engine I plan to use for $1600. Way to make a suggestion late in the game, though.

Update:

So today was quite the success. Managed to get the 2.0L out of the car along with the subframe (it's required, if you ever hope to reach the three bolts ontop of the tranny) all in under 12 hours (with breaks for lunch and a few trips to the local parts stores.

Not a bunch to talk about till tomorrow when we pair it up with the 2.3L, so here's some pics:

Removing accessories n stuff:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0705.jpg

Radiator? Gone:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0709.jpg

Stuff that only got in the way:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0710.jpg

My partner in crime shows his disbelief at how roomy things have gotten :D
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0714.jpg

Tunnel vision:
http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0713.jpg

The end result of a hard day's work:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0712.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0711.jpg

Day Two:

So, after thinking things over about the project, we decided to cut our ambitions about a full engine parts swap short, deciding to leave the pistons and cams alone and doing a full swap. There were still questions about the cause of my failing 2.0 engine to consider, so we decided to not take the risk.

However, there were still quite a few things to be interested in:

The 2.0L engine:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0715.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0716.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0717.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0718.jpg

We've found out that all major parts are DEFINITELY interchangeable(http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0727.jpg for installation of parts and wiring harnesses with yours truly), however there are some important things you'll need to have:

2.0L Fuel Rail vs 2.3L Fuel Rail as demonstrated by Gr1mreeper:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0719.jpg

Air Boxes (which are what I expect are a definite upgrade in design):
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0720.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0721.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0722.jpg (Note the metal)

2.0L Oil Pan vs 2.3L (The pan on the LEFT has tons of space for the Balance Shafts which we'll be removing; the 2.0L actually has an oil pan baffle inside of it):
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0729.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0730.jpg (2.3L on left, 2.0L on right)
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0731.jpg (2.3L on left, 2.0L on right)

2.0L Oil accessory installed in the new engine vs 2.3L being held (that slight pink in the background is the Balance Shaft Delete kit that you'll need after removing the balance shafts:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0735.jpg

----------------

Now, for the bad news which changed our decision about swapping internals (Rod bearing shavings in the oilpan):
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0732.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0733.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0734.jpg

Definitely didn't want to risk using damaged internals after seeing all that. :(

Another issue we've got to address somehow is the transmissions. The 2.3L engines as you know are from a FWD setup.
Here's the photo of the rear seal area of the 2.3L
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0724.jpg

And in a not too clear shot, the 2.0L rear seal area with what appears to be with a bearing inside:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0723.jpg

The one question we need to find an answer to is how we can either remove or replace the 2.3L engine's setup to one with the bearing inside for the transmission.

Any ideas regarding this matter would be appreciated. In the meantime, we're taking a break till next week for the last few bits of work on the install.

'Nother update:

Well, mystery solved. Seems the 2.3L empty space shown here is actually absent a pilot bearing (no doubt due to the auto tranny):
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/100_0724.jpg

Luckily, the 2.0L one for manual transmissions should be compatible. :D

Edit: I've confirmed that the pilot bearing for both the 2.0L and 2.3L engines with manual transmissions are the same (Part #YF0911303)

awesome. clean that engine bay out while you have a chance.

i'd get pieces painted / powder coated / polished (you pick) while the engine is out of the car. but if you're doing it on a deadline i guess you don't really have the time.

Update:

Well, great news for all and annoying news for us. Got everything hooked up, replaced all fluids and properly bled all the systems and we were ready to go. Turns out after letting the ECU sort itself out for a moment, the stock 2.0L managed to adjust to the 2.3 pretty easily and found itself running at a solid 750 RPM. I have to say, this setup makes a VERY nice sound when coming from the 2.3L. I'd try to describe it, but getting a video converted and uploaded here would do better justice. Hope to have that up by this time next weekend at latest.

Of course we needed to take it out for a spin just to make sure everything was proper, and after a light jog around the neighborhood we decided to see how the upper end fared. Again, won't waste a bunch of time trying to describe it (hopefully the vid will speak for itself), but I can honestly say it throws you into the seat a bit and HAULS with silky smooth shifts (most likely from changing to synthetic via the stock tranny fluid). The sound levels are pretty livable with the baffles in, but the top end sounds something PROPER. Not a huge worry on the street I'd think, unless you live somewhere that's quite stern on sound levels. The exhaust note it emits is respectable, IMO.

Surprisingly, no codes were thrown at any point during all this.The ECU handles the job well enough, and with a proper tune I could only imagine how well it'll run.

Unfortunately, the bad news of the night came with the discovery of a small coolant leak which appears to have originated from the intake manifold area. It looks like it'll take us one more weekend to sort it out, but for all general purposes consider this project a success.

Wooooooooooooooooooooooooo!

All problems solved, and the car's back on the road. :3

Nothing TOO spectacular, but here's some vids of it up and running :3

http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/?action=view&current=MVI_1231.flv

http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/lup4nth3th1rd/?action=view&current=MVI_1232.flv

Sweet!

Any sideways action yet? :)

Not just yet. I took it to work and back today but never really got too much on it due to the rain. I still need to get new tires and an alignment, so till then I figure I should just take it easy. :D

This is awesome, and I must see the car in person asap.

why not do a small block v-8 sway.the torque would make that car scarry fun

poor mans cobra,wider fenders wide a.. tires!!small block maybe the 5.4

why mess around with a little 4cyl?even a 6 would be alot faster

1.) Cost
2.) To answer the question if it could be done or not
3.) Putting in a V6 would require extensive firewall modification and a bunch of custom fabbing that I really don't want to bother with.

Also, who says 4 Cyl can't make enough power? I'm not looking for tons of it, as it is a MX-5 after all. I'd be happy with 270-300 HP, since I think that's more then necessary for a daily driver that lightweight.

why mess around with a little 4cyl?even a 6 would be alot faster

Yeah, cause FBs are the fastest things ever.

A complete engine swap is ALOT of work (engine management, finding a flywheel/clutch/trans input shaft combo, etc) and it just doesn't make sense to spend an extra 50hrs and $3k+ for 30 more hp.

Yeah, cause FBs are the fastest things ever.

A complete engine swap is ALOT of work (engine management, finding a flywheel/clutch/trans input shaft combo, etc) and it just doesn't make sense to spend an extra 50hrs and $3k+ for 30 more hp.

My FB is going to be fast.

To bring up an old thread, but did that swap end up costing you the predicted ~3700?

I wonder how much i can pick up an MX5 with a blown motor for....

So going back over the costs:
Engine = $1600 plus $100 core
2007 Factory Repair Manual = $100
CAI = $170
Goodwin Racing Midpipe, Header, and 02 Extensions: $932.02
Balance Delete Shaft kit = $40
Used Goodwin Roadstersport II Muffler = $260
Lightweight flywheel = $309.57
Extra stuff: $270

Totaling out to $3781.59

Wasted costs:
Bought new pilot bearing and found out one was included in the clutch kit = $20-30ish
Clutch kit I ordered turned out to be a 5 speed instead of 6, but I still ended up using the throwout bearing = $233
Headbolts and gaskets that weren't used, since we never swapped heads = $87.98
Rear main seal that we really ended up not needing = $70

So another $420.98 ontop for a grand total of $4202.57

Finding a cheap NA/NB with/without blown motor should be easy enough. NC? Not so much.

Whats the range of years for the NA's and NB's?

You can probably try returning the rear man and head stuff.