anyone know of an rx7 turbo II with a blown engine, high miles, etc for sale? looking to start up a new project......i dont want to spend more than a couple hundred bucks on the car. the interior can be bad, smell like cat piss, i dont care. just looking for a cheap one. any help would be appreciated.

scratch that, it doesnt have to be a turbo II. just an 86-87 2nd gen...by the way, the 2005 project car for GRM, how much did you guys get that for?...you know who you are.

saw a 1st or 2nd gen (?) you could prob pick up for 100$ in hillcrest. i wanted to do a dohc v8 swap, just dont have the patience.

you can get a 2nd gen without an engine cheap as anything. $100 should do it. I'll see what we're doing with our extra shell tomorrow.

great, an sbc v8 is probly going in there.....so i dont need the motor anyway. may even keep it rotary, havent decided yet.

first gens are alot lighter.

i like the look of the 2nd gens better, even with a v8 people are getting the 2nd gens to 2500-2700 pounds. 400-500hp should move that weight around nicely.

if u need any questions i am in the middle of doing a swap in an 86 GXL... go to www.torquecentral.com im down in hilton head island area.... i contain lots of info on the swap.. i am usin an LT1 here is my thread i have posted MOST of my pics on... http://www.torquecentral.com/showthread.php?t=26358&highlight=gettin+started

actually not in the middle im at the very end pretty much... just cleaning out my gas tank so i can mount my new fuel pump and start her up!

Sean - We have an extra fc body in clemson you can have.

i've read somewhere that the LS1 was a better engine to use, or maybe it was the LT, been awhile back i can't remember. i'd go all out and put a viper in it.

youre right, it is the LS1

the only reason LS1 is EASIER because of the alternator setup... ur gonna spend 5000+ more than any LT1 setup and for a measly 125$ u can get a smaller alternator that clears the hood... both are just as easy swaps..

chris- is it free? if so ill take it....i finally have room to put something like that now......great info talon4x4......i want to use an lt1 also, fuel injection is going to make living with it just so much easier.....and you dont have to use a huge hood scoop. i will def be asking you for help later on

my setup isnt past 3000$.. engine was practically free after i pulled it out of the Z28 and sold the c5 chrome rims on the Z28 and sold the body i got all my $$$ back

so best bet is buy the whole donor car and if ur gettin an LT1... try to aim for a 94-95 Z28... for ur donor car

Yes, the car is free. I am pretty much 100% positive the LS1 is a better engine to go with but it is more expensive.

Being the chevy expert here... and sean and i already talked about this... yes the LS1 is a better engine-- it's aluminum block instead of the iron block LT1. But the LT1 is much cheaper, not to mention the LT1 can make arseloads of power for less $$$ than you'd put into an LS1, simply because the parts are more expensive. The LS1 is a very nice engine in deed, but the LT1 in the corvette actually has the smaller altenator setup as someone mentioned on the LS1, and the LT1 in the corvette was a 4-bolt main (2 bolt main in the camaro). But, like was mentioned, you can very easily either get a smaller alt, or re-route the setup to get it to fit (there's tons of kits out there to do it with)...

In other words, the LT1 is much cheaper and easier to work with, and you won't miss out on any power at all... The only thing that makes the LS1 better is that it's aluminum block instead of iron block. They both use aluminum top ends.

chris, when and where should i pick the car up.......what kind of shape is it in? is it a roller or just a unibody frame with no suspension, ect. little more info please, thanks again man. i would be using the lt1 as said, much cheaper......the ls1 is awsome of course, but$$$$

id pay more for the ls1.
bolt-on for bolt-on the ls1 will pull the hell out of the lt1 esp. a roll.
as far as price, the lt1 = winner.

i dont like the idea of aluminum block... ill sacrifice the weight anyday for the strength of iron... aluminum blocks have a tendency to not take heat as well as iron and can swell when overheated... iron is a cheap insurance and can take the heat alot better... and alot cheaper as well as no OBD-II computer if u keep it under 95... and u cant put corvette motors into these swaps as u have to replace EVERY accessory because they dont fit... u have to go f-body... unless all u want is an alternator and no PS or A/C. And if u get fucked w/ a 98 ls1 u cant bore the engine and sleeve it... not 98 and 99 are still buggy as well... u would want a 2000+ and then u get into the other T-56 w/ internal slave and so forth and have to do alot of modifying to the cars trans housing... and tuning an LS1 isnt the cheapest...

In other words, the LT1 is much cheaper and easier to work with, and you won't miss out on any power at all... The only thing that makes the LS1 better is that it's aluminum block instead of iron block. They both use aluminum top ends.

unless u get an LT1 out of an Impala then the heads are still iron.. and then u also have to watch out of the mini-me LT1's in some 94-96 police package caprices... they are 4.3L's...

but! if u are looking for a VERY fast turbo setup u can also go w/ the buick GN drivetrain w/ the 200-4r setup... taht will launch u into the 10's w/ that car and some good tuning w/ the turbo off stock internals

my friend is prob pushing close to 450rwhp thru his ls1 and its holding up pretty well. i never thought about the chevy alum blocks weakness i know its the other way around with ford the iron 5.0 blocks crack in half around 400whp (at least mine did, was really pissed about that one), and the DOHC alum blocks hold up great from what i've heard.

If I were putting a V8 into a 50/50 car I'd go with the lightest engine I could get. We have to pull the engine first and it won't be leaving until after the 2005 grassroots challenge.

but! if u are looking for a VERY fast turbo setup u can also go w/ the buick GN drivetrain w/ the 200-4r setup... taht will launch u into the 10's w/ that car and some good tuning w/ the turbo off stock internals

hell yeah. i miss my t-type :banghead:

If I were putting a V8 into a 50/50 car I'd go with the lightest engine I could get. We have to pull the engine first and it won't be leaving until after the 2005 grassroots challenge.

with an Lt1 and t56 if u lighten the HEAVY As hell and go w/ alum or fiberglass hood and relocate the battery to the back ur at about 48/52 weight ratio and if u take out the AC/PS and have a manual steering rack ur back to around 50/50.. its been proven

Damn! i sure opened a can of worms with that post. sorta turned into an LS1 LT1 debate. how bout an old school hemi? no opinions on the viper engine i mentioned? seems those crate motors r reasonable. i think the biggest chevy is a 572. i too think a Buick GN V6 would be a good one.

u cant go wrong w/ a buick GN drivetrain... no way... but! u gotta keep the automatic... the 200-4r will take u all the way into the 9's proven... im more of a fan of the t56 6 speed... but viper engine... i dun thnk that will work... and as for a big clock... not w/o cuttin shock towers and just choppin the car 2 death.. 2 wide... i would have gone w/ the GN tho but i already had found a killer deal on an 95 camaro Z28.. LT1 and it was free after i sold the donor car and C5 chrome on it. actually gained money on it w/ parts taken off

my lt1 all the way baby! :)

id pay more for the ls1.
bolt-on for bolt-on the ls1 will pull the hell out of the lt1 esp. a roll.
as far as price, the lt1 = winner.
the lt1 vs ls1 discussion has been had many times... bolt-on for bolt-on, many LT1s have beaten LS1s. There's no reason to pay twice as much for LS1 parts and the engine, plus like someone mentioned the pain-in-the-arse OBD-II setup vs the OBD-I setup many LT1s use. the LS1 can still be bored out and all, but sleeves are costly and all. anyways, just stick it to a LT1 with the 94-97 model T-56

I don't know about all that because you even have to relocate the battery for the LS1 to maintain a 50/50 in an FD. I guess you'd know more about it than I would.

with an Lt1 and t56 if u lighten the HEAVY As hell and go w/ alum or fiberglass hood and relocate the battery to the back ur at about 48/52 weight ratio and if u take out the AC/PS and have a manual steering rack ur back to around 50/50.. its been proven

when are your guys going to the grm2005 chris? just remember i got dibs on the extra rx7:)

March 31-april 2

yea the 94-97 are true Borg Warner... T-56's... but try to get a 94-95 LT1.. u can reflash ur pcm for the 96-97 so its a OBD-I but it cost like 150$.... also dont be fooled by the 95 that has a OBD-II port BUT the PCM is an OBD-I...

thats what i will be looking for then. what kit did you get from granny? just the cradle? i saw you had headers that where made for jeep fitment, how much where those? what are your plans for the car? just drag? i want to try making mine for autocross/drag/trackday.

sean answer your freakin phone one day dude... i know you're online posting, you can't hide from me... ;)

and i'm looking sometime in the future for a preferrably 94 or 95 model Z28 with a T56 to part out.... wanting to change the 4L60E to a T56

well the headers ran me at around 140$ thru summit and i got the full PS kit from grannys for like 335$ shipped... was on special i also got the rubber motor mounts... ill tell u now just get ur cradle kit w/ the trans X-member... order as little as u need from him... hes not the best business man and doesnt ship all the right parts sumtimes but he is good at his trade and what he makes... fit like a glove! and if u get a donor car... dont forget u can save if u grab the stock master cyl for the clutch out and remember to take the fan relays and the driveshaft... as if u take it to a drivetrain place u can get one fab'd up for 170 instead of spending around 350$ at grannys... donor car is definitly the way to go... pref. hit in the rear or side or ever light in the front. need anymore info dont be afraind to msg me on AIM at BichizleMyNizle

This is the sort of thread illstreet was made for :)

yeah, its not to bad is it chris:)

Talon4x4-i will def be asking you lots of questions the closer i get to actually starting work on the car. i will be out on the lookout for a slightly wrecked 94-95 z28, thanks for all the info, i can allready tell you will be a big help......dont forget to make a big post here when your car is runing and driving. make some videos! that things going to be a beast.

This is the sort of thread illstreet was made for :)
i was surprised that debate went on that long. but i'm curious as to the rear end that will be used. not sure how much power the stock rear will handle but will u keep it or go with something stronger, like a ford 9"?

i have an 8.8" rear for $100 if anyone needs it. my friend went 6.50@105 on his the only thing not stock was the ring gear (had fms 4.10).

my first choice in building a swapped car was a : 3TC single turbo starlet.

then i looked at all the parts you need and decided on a:

JYTT 5.0 efi t-bucket :) . dont plan to finish it anytime soon, just something to spend some spare time on. have the drivetrain sans the injectors, maf, FMIC, piping out in the garage.

thats what these projects are all about. when i start mine i dont think it will be finnished soon, just something to tinker with. ill put money in it when i get some spare change. ive got the money to build what i want right now, but i dont spend the kind of money i used to in cars anymore. ive got more important things to worry about, after all....it is only a hobby.

i was surprised that debate went on that long. but i'm curious as to the rear end that will be used. not sure how much power the stock rear will handle but will u keep it or go with something stronger, like a ford 9"?

TII S4 Rearend will run u into the 11's no prob... gettin dowin into the 9's i think ur gonna have to change... now.. there are already kits for many of different shortened rear ends to go in this car... some have done Vette.. others 9" fords...

You can go 10s on the t2 diff.