All of this is from www.rotaryshack.com.

Total price is about $600. And, I believe that I can run a turbo to that efi using the blowthrough hat thing, but I'm not sure.

Jimlab, your thoughts?

(BTW, I hereby nominate JimLab as the illstreet RX-7 all around performance technical guru. All in favor?)

Jimlab, your thoughts?If you're going to turbocharge, those little throttle bodies will be a restriction. You'd be better off with a large log-style intake plenum and a single throttle body of sufficient size (~90mm).

Can I get one of those that would adapt to that manifold? I really like that manifold.

Also, if I decide to wait on the turbo, would that EFI system, manifold, a streetport and a full RB exhaust make pretty good power? (13B, btw.)

13B EFI in a GSL-SE makes 135hp. RB claims their full exhaust adds 30hp. on the butt dyno the system definately adds noticeable oomph, sounds great (mellow @ idle, throaty but not obnoxious under load) and looks good. The 13B also has a nice broad, flat torque curve and is among the more reliable rotaries.

But that's the stock EFI, right? Will this aftermarket set-up perform better or worse? What do you think the streetport will add?

Ugh, I should just get a frickin' turbo and be done with it. Rotary Shack sells S5 T2 motors for $1200.

All of this is from www.rotaryshack.com.

Total price is about $600. And, I believe that I can run a turbo to that efi using the blowthrough hat thing, but I'm not sure.

Jimlab, your thoughts?

(BTW, I hereby nominate JimLab as the illstreet RX-7 all around performance technical guru. All in favor?)

rx-7 and "performance" just dont mix well.

^
Wrong.

RX-7, performance, and reliabilty dont go together.

RX-7 and performance goes well together just fine. As do RX-7 and reliability. You just cant have all three.

RX-7 and performance goes well together just fine. As do RX-7 and reliability. You just cant have all three.Sure you can. LS1s are easy to find. :D

Seriously, i dont think ill ever own another "fun" car that doesnt have an LS1 or LT1.

I don't know, $50 FC's are fun :)

Alright, back on topic:

I've debated it all day long, come up with the pros and cons for all the situations.

The easiest (and, it just so happens, least expensive) route is simple.

I get meddle's wolf 3d.

I buy a T2 tranny, upgraded turbo and S5 T2 motor from Rotary Shack.

I buy an FMIC on ebay or something.

I buy a downpipe and have one of the local race shops fabricate the rest of the exhaust.

There ya have it.

just chuck in the 13B from a Cosmo like Directfreak did :)

http://www.rx7club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125460&stc=1

I still say T2 swap

eh throw in a SBC and ur nightmares will end :) its been done in an FB in 10 days... and came out VERY clean... if u are lookin for performance that is... but if ur going for the keep it cool factor then yea... that T2 swap is sounding a lil better lol...

^
Wrong.

RX-7, performance, and reliabilty dont go together.

RX-7 and performance goes well together just fine. As do RX-7 and reliability. You just cant have all three.

wrong again. the 13b i built and put in my 808 has been VERY reliable.

I still say T2 swap

Which is what I just said. Can't you read?

$100T2 if you weren't on the other side of the country from me I'd sell you my GSL-SE and the TII swap would go together much easier. If I don't sell the car I might have to fix it up and then my other two non-running projects would suffer.

Which is what I just said. Can't you read?


I was agreeing with you...captain hostility

oohh, i was just visiting a friend of mine with a 3-rotor FD with individual throttle bodies... they are VERY nice.

I have a side draft on my street ported 13B 4 port. I'm running a Mikuni 44PPH, though.

It's an excellent set-up. Or atleast, it was, for over 100,000 miles and 10 years of use. It needs a rebuild now.

Since my motor is streetported kind of aggresively, power under ~3,000 rpm is just about done for. I mean, it'll get up to speed while on choke, but the real fun doesn't start until you hit the 4,500 mark.

BTW, when the guys at Rotary Reliability and Racing built my motor, it was quoted at 215 flywheel hp; which, IMO, is pretty damn good for a N/A rotary that lasts 10 years, over 100,000 miles, and 3 SCCA SoloII championships. You can get a "turn key" street ported 13B from RR&R with 250 flywheel horsepower for $4500 (which comes with a 45 DCOE Weber Carb). That price is definately a little high, considering you can just about do a TII swap for that much. For some people, though, N/A is just a better idea.

I still say T2 swap
i can fabricat engine mounts if u dont have an se

im in finakl stages of my t2 swap into my 83 gsl

btw

custom mounts
custom driveshaft
modification of oil filler neck

are essential

for the driveshaft take it to a local machin shop and ask them to put 1 more inch on the shaft and switch out the t2 tranny yoke and stuff

about 200 dollars

engine room harness from the same car the engine is from

say its a sr5 tII get the s5 tII harness

ecu and engine harness is needed

so far (i got a deal on my engine)

engine:450
driveshaft:200
engine mount materials(carbon steel 1/4 inch thick): ??? already had the metal

oh yeah need to custom fab the trannyt mounts aswell inorder to use the 1st gens crossmember

I have a side draft on my street ported 13B 4 port. I'm running a Mikuni 44PPH, though.

It's an excellent set-up. Or atleast, it was, for over 100,000 miles and 10 years of use. It needs a rebuild now.

Since my motor is streetported kind of aggresively, power under ~3,000 rpm is just about done for. I mean, it'll get up to speed while on choke, but the real fun doesn't start until you hit the 4,500 mark.

BTW, when the guys at Rotary Reliability and Racing built my motor, it was quoted at 215 flywheel hp; which, IMO, is pretty damn good for a N/A rotary that lasts 10 years, over 100,000 miles, and 3 SCCA SoloII championships. You can get a "turn key" street ported 13B from RR&R with 250 flywheel horsepower for $4500 (which comes with a 45 DCOE Weber Carb). That price is definately a little high, considering you can just about do a TII swap for that much. For some people, though, N/A is just a better idea.
Aye- the first '1st' gen I had was equipped with a RR&R 4port 13B and a Mikuni. That was a very, very nice set-up. Had to fine tune the carb a bit as the seasons changed, but that was about it.

you still going for fc ls1?

you still going for fc ls1?

Yeah, if I can find one... But it will take a backseat to this project.

I want one of each. :D

The garage is going up by Nov 1st, so the FB will have a new home for the winter.

i can fabricat engine mounts if u dont have an se

Do I still need an SE front plate?

im in finakl stages of my t2 swap into my 83 gsl

btw

custom mounts
custom driveshaft
modification of oil filler neck

are essential

for the driveshaft take it to a local machin shop and ask them to put 1 more inch on the shaft and switch out the t2 tranny yoke and stuff

about 200 dollars

engine room harness from the same car the engine is from

say its a sr5 tII get the s5 tII harness

ecu and engine harness is needed

so far (i got a deal on my engine)

engine:450
driveshaft:200
engine mount materials(carbon steel 1/4 inch thick): ??? already had the metal

oh yeah need to custom fab the trannyt mounts aswell inorder to use the 1st gens crossmember

OK, I will get the engine harness... I think I am going to get the wolf 3d that meddle is selling.

There are a lot of racetracks around here, finding a place to do the driveshaft will be easy enough.

Where can I get a GSLSE rearend???

So far, my list is this:

S5 T2 motor with harness
T2 tranny
GSLSE rearend and front plate(?)
Wolf 3D
Exhaust... Downpipe, presilencer and muffler all from Racing Beat, custom fab to hook them all together
FMIC (I'm not putting in the hoodscoop from a T2)
Shocks/struts/springs/bushings etc from Mazdatrix
for $85, Mazdatrix has a "front mount plate" that supposedly makes putting a 13B in very, very easy. But it says you need the front plate from a GSLSE.
Lengthen driveshaft 1"/change yoke.

What else am I missing?

buy my sbc mounting shit;)



oh, and ls1 fb would be cool..

I'm finding deals left and right, so the project is going to come along nicely.

Picking up my LSD this weekend.

Getting brand new black carpet too.

Motor and tranny are all set.

Life is good!

Where are you getting the black carpet from, if you don't mind me asking? VB?

If you have a SE, turbo'ing it is pretty cheap. All you need is a exh manifold, turbo, exh, and FMU. The RotaryShack turbo kit is pretty good for the price and works good. Robert (rotaryshack) gave me a ride in one of his customers turbo FB and scared the shit out of me.

Alright, back on topic:

I've debated it all day long, come up with the pros and cons for all the situations.

The easiest (and, it just so happens, least expensive) route is simple.

I get meddle's wolf 3d.

I buy a T2 tranny, upgraded turbo and S5 T2 motor from Rotary Shack.

I buy an FMIC on ebay or something.

I buy a downpipe and have one of the local race shops fabricate the rest of the exhaust.

There ya have it.


That will not be the easiest and cheapest. You need a tII. There is a lot more you'll need than just the motor and tranny from a t2.

Other aftermarket stuff
summit sump.
aeromotive a1000 OR SIMILAR
t2 oil cooler or aftermarket
aeromotive 132 series regulator, any model that can sustain 40-45 base
radiator
You'll need to modify most exhaust manifolds to point the wastegate forward, there isn't much room on an fb.

I could go on and on.