does anyone have drawings with dimensions of an '85 non-turbo and '88 turbo transmission, specifically from the front to locate the input shaft relative to the bolt pattern?

try teamfc3s.org for your TII trans question

What are you trying to do?? Bell Housing?

align the AC motor shaft with the transmission input shaft by machining an adaptor plate.

Two options I'm exploring are using the smoothcase '85 tranny or, preferrably, the '88+ turbo tranny with removable bellhousing since I can then take off the bellhousing and slide the tranny back in the chassis by a few inches so the motor nests niceny partly inside the transmission tunnel.

Either way i'm making a custom driveshaft so moving the tranny is no hardship. But I need to know the center of the input shaft relative to case or bellhousing bolts.

What are you doing?

The AC motor shaft? What AC motor shaft?

I am so confused

What are you doing?

The AC motor shaft? What AC motor shaft?

I am so confused

He's making an electric 7. Blasphemy, I say.

What are you doing?

The AC motor shaft? What AC motor shaft?

I am so confused

3 phase 105hp 312V electric motor propulsion going into a chassis with a blown 12A engine.

Now that makes sense

Do you need a tranny for that? My understanding is that there is no power "band" per se. You merely need to hook the A/C motor shaft to the differential and apply power. You are limited by the usable RPM of the Electric motor.

Now that makes sense

Do you need a tranny for that? My understanding is that there is no power "band" per se. You merely need to hook the A/C motor shaft to the differential and apply power. You are limited by the usable RPM of the Electric motor.

Nope - you still need ratios, or the motor will be running at low speed most of the time. Optimum for in-city travel with this motor and differential is 3rd gear, for highway cruising it goes into 4th gear. All other gears are superfluous.

So a two speed would do it? Hi and Lo...

try a dune buggy website

That's neat, but what kind of RPM difference is there between 3rd and 4th? It seems not even neccessary. For an electric motor if you want to go faster, just spin it up faster. You'd also rid yourself of the unneeded weight of an xmission.

My understanding....and I'm not an EE......is that you can get instant max HP with an electric motor simply by adding Voltage.

And I know that a 3 phase motor does have an RPM Maximum speed........but how low you gear it is the key.

correct me please, because this is more interesting than that fighting with YZF about Honeymoon Suite.

Wait a second.. A/C motor? Isn't that adding a lot more aggrivation than you need?

Why? The controller draws the power, inverts it to AC and gives far higher efficiency than a DC motor which wastes a lot of it as heat and isn't nearly as good at regenerative braking.

As to the gearing questions, it's like this; You want to be able to use as much of the motor as possible, yet have the car perform well. That means one gear for around town, another for highway cruising that still allows "holy shit" power on demand for passing or emergencies. Using only 3rd gear would mean the car would top out at 110kph, which is the speed limit on most highways around here, without anything left.

My understanding....and I'm not an EE......is that you can get instant max HP with an electric motor simply by adding Voltage.

sort of - but this motor runs best at 312V. Adding more = draining batteries faster while decreasing the life of your motor. Simpler to gear the output and keep the 200km range of the batteries.

edit: woops, missed your post before.

Granted, im not very familiar with electric motors and advantages and disadvantages of AC vs DC. Maybe you can point me towards some reading?

see if you can get a subscription to Spectrum, published by IEEE.

Have you thought about a CVT? Seems to me that would pretty much fucking rock.

sure - but I've 6 weeks to finish this car before taking it to the symposium. Gotta keep it simple.

So you are just going to Couple it to a regular tranny and call it good?

aren't you going to need a Clutching system for switching?

gonna couple it to an '88 with the bell housing removed, after pushing the tranny back a few inches so the end of the motor can tuck into the transmission tunnel for better weight distribution. The clutch, flywheel, etc. are being tossed.

How are you going to shift gears??

Having the motor directly coupled with no way of separating it is a mistake.

You'll never be able to lift off the accelerator without the motor dragging.

sure - but I've 6 weeks to finish this car before taking it to the symposium. Gotta keep it simple.

Oooh, a symposium?

Cool.

I can get you an NA 13B trans....

How are you going to shift gears??

Having the motor directly coupled with no way of separating it is a mistake.

You'll never be able to lift off the accelerator without the motor dragging.


I don't think it will be that difficult at all.

Even if it was, if he put a speed sensor on the driveshaft, with a few calculations he could even get the motor to automatically match speeds on the shift :D

wanna buy a 700r4 for 50 bucks? lol.

I've been waiting for more info on your electRX-7 since you wrote about your plans for Labor Day.

Mind posting up some pics of where you're at so far?

Having the motor directly coupled with no way of separating it is a mistake. You'll never be able to lift off the accelerator without the motor dragging.

Tell that to the myriad of other electric cars which have done it this way for decades. The motor only 'drags' if you have it set to heavy regen mode. Light regen means it'll only go into regen when you're on the first 30% of brake pedal, independent of the throttle. What is it in an electric motor that you think will "drag"?

I can get you an NA 13B trans....

I thought only the turbo trannies had a separate, removable bell housing?

Tell that to the myriad of other electric cars which have done it this way for decades. The motor only 'drags' if you have it set to heavy regen mode. Light regen means it'll only go into regen when you're on the first 30% of brake pedal, independent of the throttle. What is it in an electric motor that you think will "drag"?



I thought only the turbo trannies had a separate, removable bell housing?

That, I do not know. But for the sake of science, I'd give you my NA trans. If you paid freight...

I'm sure you could find a Canadian with one for sale on the 7cl... try teamfc3s.org, seriously, there are a few knowledgeable guys there, some from Canada, even.

I'm looking at P-Porting and turboing my FC motor and making my FB a fun little toy, so I don't think the NA trans would do me good...

BUt just thinking out loud here, NA trans are weaker than TII, and with the torque you should be putting out, I'd go TII. So.... disregard almost this whole post.

heheh... k.

As for pics, clips, etc. they'll be appearing on drivingchange.net sometime in November.

Tell that to the myriad of other electric cars which have done it this way for decades. The motor only 'drags' if you have it set to heavy regen mode. Light regen means it'll only go into regen when you're on the first 30% of brake pedal, independent of the throttle. What is it in an electric motor that you think will "drag"
I don't know.....really

I'm just thinking out loud and I have done "0" research on this topic.

there are no pumping losses with an electric motor. If power is cut, and not switched into generation mode, the motor free-spins on its bearings. Think of it as a cylindrical flywheel.

That makes sense. I was picturing an Electric drill without a brake on it. YOu let off the trigger and it just slowly spins down.

you have to 'tune' an electric vehicle to drive like a normal car. Otherwise you let off the accelerator and it'll coast for some time. Increasing regen gives you the same "coast down" feel as a combustion engine car, as the electric motor is now working as a powerful generator.

I'm building a selector switch into the dash in place of the digital clock. Dial-operated like the fan and heat controls on other 84-85 North American models, it allows you to select reverse, neutral/start, maximum power, normal, and maximum regen.

you have to 'tune' an electric vehicle to drive like a normal car. Otherwise you let off the accelerator and it'll coast for some time. Increasing regen gives you the same "coast down" feel as a combustion engine car, as the electric motor is now working as a powerful generator.

I'm building a selector switch into the dash in place of the digital clock. Dial-operated like the fan and heat controls on other 84-85 North American models, it allows you to select reverse, neutral/start, maximum power, normal, and maximum regen.

Sounds cool.

What are you going to do for Batteries?

I imagine he'll be putting a large bank in a tray where his gas tank was.

98 3.2V iron phosphate type lithium ion cells, each about the size of a VHS cassette. They're going in a U around the motor, in the storage bins, and where the gas tank & spare were. All told the car gains about 18% in weight.

Offtopic, but just outta curiousity, if an auto tranny were to suddenly loose fluid pressure while driving will it fuck up the tranny like and engine would if it lost oil pressure, or is it merely a case of filling up the tranny with fluid and ur good to go?

Depends. Gears usually do hold up better than pistons IMHO.

Yes, yes it will :P

You'll have issues shifting with a low torque converter though, it'll act like a stall converter and shift only at higher RPMs.

In fact, most older auto transmissions have hydrolics to control the shifting too :/